Saturday, June 13, 2026

Stretching the concept of "main course" to its limits

I already wrote about how some of the recipes in McCall's Book of Wonderful One-Dish Meals (edited by Kay Sullivan, 1972) make me kind of nervous, but the post didn't mention the especially nerve-wracking chapter on "Salads as a Main Course." I have no problem with the concept, often making a tossed salad loaded with half-a-dozen veggie varieties, Tofurky, cottage cheese, and a sprinkling of mixed nuts into a standalone meal on hot summer days. This book, though, doesn't seem all that concerned with whether a main course salad is all that substantial.

I expected the Fiesta Salad Platter, for example, to be a fairly standard taco salad. Nope! Not even close.


It's mostly just cooked cauliflower and and green beans marinated in oil-and-vinegar dressing and sprinkled with a few croutons. Diners can slather on some herbed mayonnaise to make it a little more substantial, but I'm not sure what would make anyone see this as a main dish (or a fiesta).

I've seen variations of the next selection listed as a salad or as a dessert.


But I have never seen anyone claim that a dish consisting largely of fruit-flavored gelatin and ginger ale should count as the main course.

Also in the desserty realm, the book recommends Rainbow Salad Plate.


This recipe is a bit more substantial, offering diners a bite or two of cheese and a couple pecan halves, but it's still mostly fruit and sherbet. (At least the book recommends hot buttered muffins as an accompaniment to give this meal a little heft.) I saved this one for last just because I wanted to make you imagine eating a scoop of sherbet with oil-and-vinegar dressing on top.

Of course, a lot of old cookbooks list lengthy menus-- soup, meat, potatoes, hot vegetable, cold salad, rolls with butter, and fruit, plus a substantial dessert of pie, cake, cookies, and/or ice cream--  so maybe "main dish" didn't mean as much back then. If the editors are expecting cooks to serve these with accoutrements like soup, bread and butter, and a heavy dessert, maybe they would do as a main course. That would mean that Sullivan was not particularly committed to the "one-dish" premise of the book, but I already established that she wasn't, so... maybe these would actually work? Or maybe Americans' expectations of what constitutes a full meal have changed over the years? People were trimmer in the 1970s.

2 comments:

  1. I remember grandma talking about having a fruit cup instead of a full meal for lunch so she could afford to go to a matinee movie. That was from WWII era, but I could see that school of thought persisting. It might not have been for budgetary reasons, but maybe have that for lunch because you're having a heavy dinner? Or maybe it was scrounge through the refrigerator lunch. After all, mayonnaise sandwiches, buttered pasta, and condiment laden gelatin rings have been passed off as main dishes (or just passed off as food).

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